Vintage Pledge: Lutterloh late 40s panties


Almost two weeks ago I finished my first Vintage Pledge project; late 40s Lutterloh panties :)
It's the first time I made (vintage) lingerie and I really liked it. Although the slippery and fraying fabric could be frustrating at times.

I have a love-hate relationship with Lutterloh. I love their patterns, but every time I use them I have to make so many alterations that it's easier to draft te pattern myself. In this case I din't completely draft the pattern myself, but used the Lutterloh pattern and started altering it until it fits. I don't mind tweaking a pattern a bit to get a better fit, but I had to made huge changes and it doesnt look like the original pattern at all anymore.

In the picture above you see how the panties would look like according to the Lutterloh pattern. The crotch is way too wide, I had to cut away so much fabric there to make it fit.

There was a lot of hand sewing involved, but I don't mind that, because sewing thing by hand give you a lot more control over the fabric and it results in a neater finish with less visible stitching, which I prefer.

The side seam can be closed with little snaps which are sewn on a continuous sides seam placket closure. This was a first for me, although it isn't perfect I'm happy with how it came out. The hems and waist are finished with bias cut strips.

So, now I finally made my first steps into lingerie making there will be more. I already drafted a bra pattern and a pattern for French knickers and another kind of panties (don't know if they have a particular name) and all are vintage (30s/40s inspired). They will be all made from the same fabric and lace trim because this way I can mix and match :)

Have you ever made your own lingerie?


What I've been up to lately


Wow, time is flying once again. Every week I promised myself to write a blogpost, but somehow I didn't get to it. Í'm also terribly behind with reading other blogs. I'm sorry for not commenting lately, I just didn't spend a lot of time behind my computer. 

So what have I been doing lately? I went on a holiday and I celebrated my birthday :) I did a lot of knitting, not so much of sewing. Instead I rediscovered the joy of pattern drafting.

I had some troubles with fitting the Lutterloh lingerie patterns and I realized it was easier to draft the patterns myself. But at that moment I didn't realise my block pattern is quite old and my body has changed a lot since I made that pattern. Thus, I had to make a new one, if I wanted to draft the lingerie patterns. After some contemplating, I thought it was a good investment to draft new block patterns because I already planned some other sewing projects which involves pattern drafting. 
So when I had finsihed drafting the block patterns (bodice and trousers), I drafted (1:4 scale) a bra, different kinds of panties, the halter of the Ultimate 50s Summer Dress and a 40s inspired evening gown. Yes, I definintely got the hang of it!

After all that pattern drafting I decided to start making one of the panties. I cut it out of the fabric and didn't get much further then that. But this weekend I have lots of free time and I definitely want to spend some time behind my sewing machine :)

Knittingwise I did a lot! I finished all the pieces of my boyfriends sweater. Yesterday I blocked the back and front. Since I have scarce space to block the knitted pieces I can't do them all at once. But that doesn't matter, because I have started another knitting project so my hands won't stay idle. 

I love colors, color charts, patterns, colorwork, ecc. but I thought it was time for something different. I went through my stash of vintage knitting patterns and found this jumper with cables in a Dutch magazine called Margriet Breit. This was a good choice, because I really enjoy knitting this pullover. It's such a welcome change and I'm progressing so fast. Only 3 weeks ago I started knitting this and the front and back are already finished and I'm halfway the first sleeve.

Although I love love love stranded/intarsia knitting, my wardrobe can use some cardigans or pullovers in solid colors. And with this current project I feel really motivated to do something about that :)

Hopefully I can show you something finished soon!

(Argh, blogger makes such a mess of the lay out)


Round Up Me Made May Weeks 3, 4 and 5

Wow, this month is going so fast! I can't believe I photographed today my latest Me Made May outfit! So that means, it's time for another round up:

Me made slacks and cardigan. This was my first cardigan I ever knitted. And it's probably the one I wear most.

The skirt and cardigan are made by me. When it comes to knitting I like stranded knitting the most. 

Another oldie. This skirt I made quite some time ago. It's a basic gathered skirt, I still like the fabric and wear it alot during spring and summer.

The jumper and skirt are made by me. I'm more a cardigan person then a jumper/pullover person. But I definitely should knit more jumpers. 

I love big circle skirts, they are so classy and timeless. This one I made about 3 years ago during a sewing weekend.

My first sewn Lutterloh dress from a late 30s pattern book

This is my favourite dress I ever made and is self drafted based on a late 30/ early 40s Lutterloh pattern. The dress was one of the more complicated patterns I had drafted.

My final Me Made May Outfit. This is a self drafted 50s inspired dress.

I discovered that I still like wearing my old pieces a lot. That although I spent tons and tons of time making a garment I still wear it years after i made it :) That means it is totally worth the effort!

As you can see, I don't stick to one era or one style. I like to play around and try different things. I'm not a vintage purist, I like to mix modern with vintage. Sometimes I like to try to be as authentic as possible and other times I just like to wear my sneakers with a 40s dress or slacks. 

I hope you enjoyed seeing my me made outfits :)


50s Summer Dresses: What to choose?


I need your help! I'm planning on making a 50s summer dress but I can't decide which one to make. Hopefully you can help me out by telling me which one your favourite is?

Here they are:

1. Alice In Wonderland

2. Butterfly Dress

3. Button Down Dress With Stripes

4. Ultimate 50s Summer Dress (I have the pattern below but want to make a neckline as you can see at the pattern above.

5. Circle Skirt with Bustiere (I'm opting for View A)

What are your summer sewing plans?
I would love to hear your thoughts!
Thanks in advance!!


Me Made May Round Up Week 1 and 2


We already passed two weeks of Me Made May, so it's time for a little round up. I pledged to wear me made garments at least three times a week. We had chilly weather and summery weather so it was nice to switch between my beloved cardigans and summer dresses.

At the first day I wore two recent makes: a 40s dress and my Rowan Cardigan. I love both items and wear them a lot. 

The second day I wore a floral dress I made a few years ago. It was lovely weather so this dress was a perfect choice.

I love to combine vintage and modern. Here I wore a me made 40s inspired blouse and skirt. I had to run some errands and I can't walk very long on high heels so I opted for sneakers. The jacket and sneakers gives the otherwise cute outfit some edge.

In the second week of may we still had some great weather. So I picked another floral dress. This time a dress made with a 50s sewing pattern. Actually this is one of the first vintage sewing patterns I ever purchased.

And the good weather continues, so I wore another dress suitable for warmer temperatures. This dress is made from one of my Lutterloh books. I love stripes and I love puffed sleeves and I love shirtwaist dresses. So a total win for me!

Alas, temperature dropped down. So no, pretty summer dresses this time. This time I'm wearing a me made blouse, dress and the cardigan you have already seen above.

I hope you like it! :)


Finished: Hollywood 1875 / Peasant blouse

Hello! How are you doing?

I have a kind of a routine when it comes about blogging about my finished sewing projects. First I iron the garment(s), then preparing to make pictures and then actually take pictures. After taking pictures I edit them (nothing too special, just resizing/cropping and sometims make them a bit brighter) and finally I'll write a blogpost. So this morning I started with my routine but when I was ready to take pictures I discovered I had to recharge the battery. To make the best of the time, I decided to write the blogpost first and take pictures after. Hoping the battery will be recharged by then. It felt a bit strange, writing without pictures, but not something undoable. 

I made view 3

Anyways, today I want to show you my latest make. It's a late 40's peasant blouse. I wanted to make a peasant blouse for years now, but somehow I never got to it. Last summer I planned on sewing one, but eventually didn't get to it, because it was already september when I finally had time for this project. So this year I wanted it to be my first spring/summer make, because I didn't want to postpone it another time.

I had this pattern in my stash for some years and it's Hollywood 1875 dating from the late 40s. The blouse is made in a white cotton and I added a nice lace trim to the sleeves. 

1. Inside of sleeve; 2. outside of sleeve; 3. completed top

Although this wasn't a very complicated project it sill had some challenges. First, the fabric isn't that great. It's a very stiff cotton (even washing it several times it still remained very stiff). It leaves small holes when you put a needle or pin through it. Luckily the holes disappears after washing the fabric. And the fabric is a bit sheer. So you see every seam, facing or dart. Which, of course, I don't like and wanted to solve. Lining the blouse was not an option, because it would be too warm in summer. I opted for French seams and organza facings which you (almost) won't see from the outside.

The other challenge was the closure. The sewing descriptions didn't provide any information about the closure at all. They mentioned to close the side seams with no further instructions about inserting a zipper or adding snaps or whatsoever. Also other places where you would expect a zipper/snaps weren't mentioned. With no extra opening the blouse wouldn't fit me at all. In first instance I opted for a zipper in the sideseam, but eventually decided against it because you would see too much of the zipper and seams on the outside. Instead, I made button loops on the one side (front) of the side seam and sewed buttons on the other side (back).

1.French seams and organza facing; 2. button loops in the front side seam; 3. bias cut facings for the lower part of the arm scye; 4. buttons, buttons, buttons
Next time I definitely go for another fabric. I prefer a more soft cotton fabric instead of this stiff fabric. Sometimes choices are so limited over here, with only one fabric store. 

Silly pic of me. What was I thinking when  I was doing this pose :P
But in the end, I'm very happy with this blouse. Because I can wear it with so many skirts I already have. And that made me realise I need more of them. But since I don't like sewing the same pattern again I want to do something different. Something with embroidery or smocking. And I already have the perfect patterns in my stash: 

Simplicity 1137  (left) and Simplicity 1660 (right)

Now I only need to find more time to make all those pretty peasant blouses!


Me Made May and just a little update


A couple of years ago I participated in Me Made May and I really enjoyed it. This year I want to join again, because the prevous time I experienced I really like to think about how to style my me made pieces to make a nice outfit. I also like the community feel of this challenge because of the Flickr Group. So here we go:

'I,  Anthea (http://anthea-retrovintage.blogspot.nl @AntheaRV, sign up as a participant of Me-Made-May '16. I endeavour to wear at least one me made garment 3 days a week for the duration of May 2016. Repeats are allowed, but the look has to be styled differently.'

So now my coat is finished I started some new sewing projects. First is a peasant blouse which was on my wishlist for quite some time. I have like four skirts in my wardrobe which I don't wear a lot because I don't have a nice top to wear with them. Well this is going to change, because this peasant top (Hollywood 1875) is the answer!I'm making view 3.

Hollywood 1875 Peasant top

Another project I started is making my own vintage lingerie. Well, I'm still in the preparations fase, but it won't  take long before I'm really sewing a pretty bra and some nice panties. I went through my pattern stash to see what I already have and decided it's time to use some patterns from my Lutterloh books. I also went through my fabric stash to see if I have suitable fabrics. Luckily I do have! Ov er the years I thrifted lots and lots of vintage lace so it's finally time to use some of them. 
Because Lutterloh has almost no sewing instructions with their patterns I bought Mrs Depew's E-book about sewing lingerie. I hope this will be a great reference book to make my own vintage lingerie.

Lingerie patterns from Lutterloh (late 40s/ early 50s)
I like to make the panties on the left and the bra on the right picture
I've been knitting and crocheting as well. The 30s Fair Isle Pullover is progressing gradually. I finished the front and back but after a quick fit it appeared the shoulders were too narrow. So I had to frog part of it and now I'm almost done knitting these pieces in the right size. 

1930s Fair Isle Pullover
Before frogging the neck part
When I feel tired I like to change to an easier project. At the moment I'm working on a 40s scarf. It's very easy and think it will be great with my new coat. So far this doesn't look very impressive, but after blocking, this will turn in a thrue beauty.


Lastly, I went to a fleamarket with my boyfriend and found two sewing pattern magazines (pattern sheets included!) from the early 50s for a real bargain. But more about that in another blogpost :)

Record/ Die Elegante Linie Sewing Pattern Magazines

What are your current projects/purchases? And are you participating in Me Made May as well?



Finished: Simplicity 2865 / Late 1930s Coat


It took me over 5 months, but today I can tell you that I FINALLY finished my 30s coat! And I don't even count in planning this sewing project, because I already did that back in 2013, as you can read here and here

1930s Tailored Coat Made By Anthea

It's been on and off in my mind for years! And now it's done. It feels so strange. Of course, I feel proud and I think I really achieved something. On the other hand I also feel a bit sad that this project is done. 

1930s Tailored Coat Made By Anthea
Simplicity 2865
This was my first big tailoring project and I never learned so much from one single project like padstitching, making bound buttonholes and welt pockets.

1930s Tailored Coat Made By Anthea

There was so much handstitching involved. For example: all the padstitching is done by hand. I only sewed the vertical seams of my lining with my sewing machine. All the other seams of the lining are done by hand, sleeves included. The lining is fully slipstitched into the coat. I did some featherstitching in the lining to create some pleats.

1930s Tailored Coat Made By Anthea

It wasn't always fun sewing this coat. I had problems with the fabric which shrunk so much when I pretreated it. I had to improvise a lot to make it work. The pattern was two sizes too big, so I needed to grade down big way and that was especially difficult with the sleeves. Luckily, after many muslins and trial and errors it came out fitting me better.

1930s Tailored Coat And Scarf Made By Anthea

The  crocheted scarf I'm wearing in the picture above is also made by me some years ago. Actually it's a huge triangle, but I like to wrap it around my neck. 

1930s Tailored Coat And Scarf Made By Anthea

I've been dreaming of my own tailored coat for so many years. It was in 2008 when I was in Dublin and came across a shop with beautiful tailored coats. Of course, I couldn't afford one, so it was then when I started dreaming about making my own tailored coat in a pretty color. 

1930s Tailored Coat Made By Anthea

Well, I don't think I can leave it just with this coat. I love to make more coats in the future. But now, I will be glad to make some garments which take less time to finish. And finally time, to focus on the Vintage Pledge!

1930s Tailored Coat Made By Anthea

I was a bit scared the coat would be too warm to wear now. But weather has been bad lately. So lucky for me I guess. Although I do like some sunshine and warmer temperatures as well. 

1930s Tailored Coat Made By Anthea

You can find a bunch of pictures which I made during the progress on my Instagram. If you like to see them, you can find me here: click. And I aslo wrote some blogs about the progress which you can find here and here.

1930s Tailored Coat Made By Anthea

Enjoy your weekend! I will definitely do!