3.12.13

My very first steps into coat making: The modern way

Hi all!
Hallo allemaal!

The last few week I've been working on the coat of my mother in law and I just wanted to share you a little about the progress so far! 

De afgelopen tijd ben ik druk bezig geweest met het naaien van de winterjas voor mijn schoonmoeder. Ik wilde graag een update geven over de voortgang tot nu toe.


I feel a bit ashamed if I tell you I wanted to make this coats over 2 years ago. But it got delayed because of the fire we had last year and the busy job I had at that time. So it feels like big relieve to have this one on the sewing table.

Ik schaam me een beetje als ik toegeef dat ik deze jas eigenlijk 2 jaar geleden al wilde maken. Door de brand die we hadden en een drukke baan was ik er niet aan toegekomen. Het voelt goed om hier eindelijk mee bezig te zijn.

Source
The coat pattern is Burda 7855. This is a modern pattern. Because it's my first coat I ever make I decided to stick to the pattern instructions. Just to get the hang of it.  When I make my own coat(s) I want to apply more traditional techniques like padding.

Het patroon is Burda 7855. Dit is een modern patroon. Omdat dit de eerste jas is die ik maak heb ik besloten om me aan de instructies van het patroon te houden. Met de andere jassen die ik ga maken wil ik meer traditionele technieken gebruiken zoals pikeren.

The satin ribbon is very hard to photograph
We bought a black woolen fabric and I added borders to sleeves and the hem of the coat, made of gobelin fabric. The edges are finished with satin ribbon. 

We hebben een mooie zwarte wol gekocht en voor de banden langs de mouwzoom en jaszoom hebben we gobelin stof gehaald. De banden zijn afgewerkt met satijnband. 

Source
I've been reading 'Tailoring: the classic guide to sewing a perfect jacket' and the book has very good instructions on how to sew a coat. For example: to reduce bulk it's advisable to cut away fabric at the hem line of the coat and sleeves. See below:

Ik ben 'Tailoring: the classic guide to sewing a perfect jacket' aan het lezen en het boek bevat zeer heldere instructies als het om het maken van een jas gaat. Bijvoorbeeld om de zoom minder dik te maken bij de naden is het raadzaam om daar wat stof te weg te knippen. Zie hieronder:


This week I hope to finish the outer coat, and next week I want to start with the lining. Hopefully the coat is finished before christmas :) Wish me luck!

Ik hoop deze week de buitenjas af te maken, zodat ik volgende week met de voering aan de slag kan. Het is de bedoeling dat de jas voor kerstmis klaar is :)   

Have you ever sewed a coat? Do you have any tips or tricks to share with me?

Heb jij al eens een jas gemaakt? En heb je nog tips voor me?

18 comments:

  1. You are doing such a great job, please let us know all your trials and tribulations so that we can learn from you:)

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    1. Thanks :) I will let you know what my struggles will be ;) I also hope to get some victories which I can share as well!

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  2. I love the borders you added to the sleeves. I can't wait to see the final product! I've never sewn a coat but was planning to make one when my current coats wear out. My local library has a copy of that tailoring book, so I'm definitely going to check it out :)

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    1. I can really recommend this book. It also explains very clearly between the different tailoring techniques. The pros and cons. So you can decide which techniques you prefer for a certain garment.

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  3. Echt prachtig, die rozen langs de mouwen en onderkant!

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    1. Dankjewel! Tot nu toen ben ik ook tevreden met het resultaat :)

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  4. That rose fabric is so strikingly beautiful! I love it and can already tell that this is going to be a show stoppingly incredible coat when it's finished. Great work, dear gal!

    Big hugs (the first from my new computer :)),
    ♥ Jessica

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    1. Thanks Jessica! The coat is quite basic so the border does make it more special :) And I just love roses! It's one of my current obsessions, to say the least.

      I'm glad to hear you have a laptop again!

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  5. I can just tell this is going to be gorgeous Anthea! I'm hoping to be able to delve into making my first coat early next year for our winter and yours is so inspiring!!

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    1. Thank you! Can't wait to see your coat when it's finished! I'm sure it will be lovely!

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  6. Your mother in law is very lucky! That border is beautiful!

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  7. This looks fantastic! I love the border fabric, it's beautiful. Good luck with the rest of it.

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  8. How fun! Can't wait to see the finished coat! I love the rose border.
    -Jamie
    ChatterBlossom

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  9. Sewing a coat for your mother in law, wow that's some selfless sewing! Love the applied border, it sure brings a wow-factor to this classic look. I have the same book and used it tons when sewing my own coat a few years ago. It was such a huge help, I couldn't have done it without it!

    I do have two tips; one thing rarely mentioned in patterns and potrayed as optional in the Tailoring book is cutting an extra layer hair canvas for the front shoulders. It's cut on the bias and quilted to the main hair canvas. This for me made a huge difference, and I was so happy that I didn't skip this step. This area is otherwise prone to growing with wear...

    The second tip is to use a waistline stabilizer if the skirt of the coat is either full or long. All that heavy wool can soon stretch the bodice out of shape! The book focuses on jackets, where this isn't needed, and I don't remember this detail being mentioned anywhere.

    Just my two cents =) Good luck with sewing the coat! I'm sure it'll be great!

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    1. I'm not so good at selfless crafting. I promisde my mother in law about 2 years ago that I would make her a coat. It feels good to work on it,

      Wow, those are great tips! thanks for sharing! The waist stabilizer is really something I would use when making the 30s coat, which has some flare in the skirt.

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